The Bra-makers Manual
The Bra Makers Manuals By Beverly Johnson were written as textbooks for the home sewist as well as those involved in custom bra-making.
Even if you have never sewn a bra for anyone else, you will thoroughly enjoy making your own well-fitting and supportive bras. Now you can have bras in all of the fashionable fabrics and colours, in styles that rival ready-to-wear – at a fraction of the cost.
It doesn’t matter what size you are, you will be able to make your own custom fitting bra.
The Manuals are conveniently coil bound, making it easy to open on your sewing table.
There are two volumes of the manual – The Bra Makers Manual Volume 1 and The Bra Makers Manual Volume 2. Each of the manuals cover differing depths of information and areas, for the sewist to become familiar with.
All technical drawings created by Beverly Johnson, The Fairy Bra Mother.
Happy sewing!
- History of the Bra…………………..1-12
The Bra Family Tree
So Who Invented the First Bra?
The Twenties and Thirties
The Rise of Elastic
Wartime and the Boomer Years
Burn That Bra!
That 70’s Look
The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
The Return to Cleavage – 1990s - Terms and Definitions……………..13-23
Parts of a Bra
Types of Bras
Cups
Frames
Bridges
Straps
Bra Findings - What is Good Fit?…………………..24-33
What “is” Good Fit?
Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
The BCD Method of Bra Sizing (Second Edition Only)
The Underwire System (First Edition Only)
International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart (First Edition Only) - Making Fabric Choices……………34-50
Knits or Wovens
Knit terms
Percentage and Direction of Pull
Beefing up the Fabric
Fibre Content
Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
Fabric Quantities
Elastic Terms - Obtaining the Pattern……………….51-73
Home Sewing Patterns
Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
Breast Moulds
Bra Drafting Software
Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
Professional Bra Blocks
Terms used in Bra Design
Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
Evaluating a Bra Pattern
Observations about Bra Grading
An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
Grading One Size Larger - Birth of a Bra………………………………74-88
Tester Cups
Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
Fabric Selection
Framework
Closure
Seamline Variations
Bridge and Band Detail
Straps
Bra Design Sheet - The Construction Process………….89-122
Setting Up to Sew
The Equipment
The Tools
Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
Alternate Methods of Construction
Alternate Methods of a Front Strap Attachment
Alternate Methods of a Back Strap Attachment
Choices for Wire Line Treatments
Alternate Band Construction
Common Mistakes Everyone Makes - Fitting to a Live Model……………123-145
Fittings Prior to Sewing
Assessing the First Fitting
Alterations to the Straps
Alterations to the Band
Alterations to the Bridge
Alterations to the Cups - Style Changes for Fashion………..146-182
Minor Style Changes
Major Style Changes
The Strapless Bra - Style Changes for Special Needs…183-222
Support Challenges
Support Bras
Nursing Bras
Mastectomy Bras - Appendix…………………………223-230
Suggested Futher Reading
Wire Chart
Client Information and Design Sheet
Fitting and Style Change Drawings
List of Sample Providers - Index……………………231-235
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- Style, Size & Shape Revisited……..……………….……….1-21
Classifying Bra Styles
Ready-to-wear Sizing Primer
How does RTW measure its bras?
Breast Contour
Minimizers
Petites
Looking at Breasts - Drafting a Bra Pattern………………………………….…22-49
Drafting a Bra Block
Drafting the Frame
Drafting the Lower Cup
Drafting the Upper Cup
Modifying Cup Style Lines - Grading Bra Patterns………………………….…………50-61
How the Body Grows
Two Sets of Grade Rules?
Cross Grading
Frameless Bra Band Grade
Frameless Bra Cup Grade
Cup Grade in the Larger Cup Sizes
Frame Bra Band Grade
Sports Bra Grade - Complex Fitting Techniques…………………….….….…62-75
Thoracic Shaping
The Flat Spot
The 5 Body Types
Fitting Petites
Fitting the Low Contour Breast
Back To The Wall
Fitting The Omega Shape
Increasing lift - Loving Lace……………………………………………76-94
Working with lace Edging
Ideas for Lace application - Photo Gallery
- Advanced construction …………………..…….….…….95-112
Alternative Channeling Applications
Using Sliders instead of Rings
Front Strap Connectors
Changing the Construction Order
Nursing Bra Clips
Slide Lock Adjusters
Separators
Using Continuous Wires
Using Adhesives - Cut-and-sew Foam Cups…………………..……………113-120
Cut-and-sew?
Contour Foam Cups
Cut-and-sew Foam
Seam and Topstitch
Butt and zig-zag
Mold Your Own Foam? - Molded Foam Cups………….…………………………121-162
Birth of a Foam Cup
Foam Footprints
Foam Cup Sizing
Bullet Molding
Drafting a Frame for Foam Cups
Covering Molded Foam Cups
Finishing the Cup Edges
Making Foam Cup Bras - Tools of the Trade………………..……………………163-177
Machines for Bra-making
Feeders, Folders, Binders and Hemmers
Other Useful Accessories - Chapter of Charts……………….………………..……178-184
Suggested Further Reading
Ready-to-wear Bra Sizing Chart
Ready-to-wear Standards (inches)
Ready-to-wear Standards (metric)
Wire Schematic
Using the Underwire Schematic
Arc Length Chart
Strap Patterns - Index……………………………………………..…185-188
- Style, Size & Shape Revisited……..……………….……….1-21
Beverly Johnson started teaching bra-making in 1995, after many years of making her own dance costumes and figure skating costumes. But she was a teacher long before that. Beverly taught high school Home Economics in the early 70s, then taught adult sewing, quilting and interior design for the next 25 years! She travelled all over the world to teach sewing techniques.
When she started teaching, the lack of well-fitting commercial bra patterns and good quality supplies became glaringly apparent; and so, she made a double-sided decision. One – she determined to engineer a bra pattern for her students, one that would encompass all the unique sizes of the women she met. Two – she was adamant about only selling top quality supplies; supplies that were readily available to the bra-making industry, but not to the fabric stores or the home sewist.
Bra-makers Supply put out its first one-page catalogue in 1997. Like many other woman-owned and operated businesses begin, Bra-makers Supply started in the basement of Beverly’s home. Then, Threads magazine mentioned Bra-Makers Supply in one issue, also mentioning that Bra-Makers Supply was located in Canada! This caused business to explode! Soon stores were calling wanting bra-making classes. This began Beverly’s love-affair with her HUGE suitcase, as she travelled all over the world teaching women to sew bras. The suitcase was big enough that Beverly could have travelled in it herself!
At the same time, the stores were asking where they could buy the supplies they wanted for their customers. Bra-makers Wholesale was born and now services over 200 retail locations, keeping them supplied with the same top-quality goods that Beverly’s students had come to enjoy.
The 70-pound suitcase, however, was not built to last. Just try lifting a suitcase full of underwires, class notes and fabrics! With ever increasing demand for teaching, what was Beverly to do? In a stroke of pure genius that only sleep deprivation can induce, Beverly decided to train women to become Instructors using her Universal Fit Method and patterns. Now her methods and patterns are all over the world!
Bra-makers Supply moved from Beverly’s basement to a small Markham warehouse in January 1999. The order desk was manned (or should we say “wo-manned”) for over 6 years by the crew there. The stock kept growing and growing until they were out of space …again!
Beverly had the idea that women who enjoyed sewing their own well-fitting and supportive bras might want to make a career out of sewing bras for other women. The Professional made-to-Measure Bra-making Program was first taught under the umbrella of Mohawk College (Hamilton, Ontario, Canada), and has proven to be very popular. It made sense in 2003, that Beverly move yet again, to Hamilton. She decided that this was the place to have a store and internet order centre, as well as a classroom where she could teach courses for all levels of bra-making, swimwear and corsetry.
The final piece of the puzzle was the completion and publication of Beverly’s book The Bra-makers Manual, in December 2005. We know you are going to ask when she had time to write such a book, and the answer should be obvious – a lot of Beverly’s time travelling was spent on airplanes. Most of the book was written inside airports across Canada and on flights overseas. The drawings were done by hand until she discovered how well computers could handle all 760 technical drawings in the book – that certainly made life easier. Start to finish, the book took over 6 years to produce!
In 2010, they moved to their own space in the heart of the fabric district on Ottawa Street. It has both a beautiful well-lit and spacious classroom; and a large stockroom area. This is now where Bra-makers calls home – 308 Ottawa Street. To complete the whole picture is a team of highly qualified ladies, mentored by Beverly, bringing the friendly “voice”of Bra-makers. They all process orders and answer any questions you may have.
Beverly’s little company has grown over the past 20 years from a one-page list of supplies to a 4000 square foot store filled with remarkable goodies. Large enough to handle all your bra-making needs, but never so large that we forget where we came from and the women who helped us get there.