Description
Bra-makers Manual Volume 1
The Bra-makers Manual has everything you have wanted to know about making bras but didn’t know where to look. This is the original and first book of its kind, written as a textbook for the custom bra-maker. Home sewers up for a bit of a challenge will find this book a complete reference on bra design, draft, fit, and construction. Even if you never sew a bra for anyone else, you will thoroughly enjoy making your own well-fitting and supportive bras.
Author Beverly Johnson explains how to obtain the pattern for your bra (there are many sources) and how to change that one basic pattern into a library of bra styles and designs. You will learn to fit like a pro, how to choose and control fabric, and how to duplicate all of the professional techniques you see in ready to wear – including strapless, nursing, and mastectomy bras. There are optional patterns to purchase that were developed for use with this book. Please see the pattern section for the new Classic Bra pattern. The book is 240 pages with 4 in colour pages of pictures.
Second Edition: Now includes BCD Method of Bra Sizing
- History of the Bra…………………..1-12
The Bra Family Tree
So Who Invented the First Bra?
The Twenties and Thirties
The Rise of Elastic
Wartime and the Boomer Years
Burn That Bra!
That 70’s Look
The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
The Return to Cleavage – 1990s - Terms and Definitions……………..13-23
Parts of a Bra
Types of Bras
Cups
Frames
Bridges
Straps
Bra Findings - What is Good Fit?…………………..24-33
What “is” Good Fit?
Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
The BCD Method of Bra Sizing (Second Edition Only)
The Underwire System (First Edition Only)
International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart (First Edition Only) - Making Fabric Choices……………34-50
Knits or Wovens
Knit terms
Percentage and Direction of Pull
Beefing up the Fabric
Fibre Content
Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
Fabric Quantities
Elastic Terms - Obtaining the Pattern……………….51-73
Home Sewing Patterns
Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
Breast Moulds
Bra Drafting Software
Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
Professional Bra Blocks
Terms used in Bra Design
Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
Evaluating a Bra Pattern
Observations about Bra Grading
An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
Grading One Size Larger - Birth of a Bra………………………………74-88
Tester Cups
Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
Fabric Selection
Framework
Closure
Seamline Variations
Bridge and Band Detail
Straps
Bra Design Sheet - The Construction Process………….89-122
Setting Up to Sew
The Equipment
The Tools
Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
Alternate Methods of Construction
Alternate Methods of a Front Strap Attachment
Alternate Methods of a Back Strap Attachment
Choices for Wire Line Treatments
Alternate Band Construction
Common Mistakes Everyone Makes - Fitting to a Live Model……………123-145
Fittings Prior to Sewing
Assessing the First Fitting
Alterations to the Straps
Alterations to the Band
Alterations to the Bridge
Alterations to the Cups - Style Changes for Fashion………..146-182
Minor Style Changes
Major Style Changes
The Strapless Bra - Style Changes for Special Needs…183-222
Support Challenges
Support Bras
Nursing Bras
Mastectomy Bras - Appendix…………………………223-230
Suggested Futher Reading
Wire Chart
Client Information and Design Sheet
Fitting and Style Change Drawings
List of Sample Providers - Index……………………231-235
Languages Available:
Bra-makers Manual spiral bound book – Volume 1 – English, German
Volume 2
We also recommend the follow up to the Bra-makers Manual, Volume 2.
Author Beverly Johnson, undeniably the Wizard of Bras and your very own Fairy Bra Mother, has written more of what she knows about bra design, draft, fit, and construction – packed into a her second book. Nothing from the Bra-makers Manual Volume 1 has been repeated in this all-new material collection of professional construction techniques, advanced fitting challenges, and more. This book details drafting a bra from 6 body measurements, grading a bra into multiple sizes, working with lace, and a huge chapter on working with foam bra cups. There is even a chapter on machine know-how and how to use the attachments particular to bra-making. It is 185 pages with full-colour photographs.
- Style, Size & Shape Revisited……..……………….……….1-21
Classifying Bra Styles
Ready-to-wear Sizing Primer
How does RTW measure its bras?
Breast Contour
Minimizers
Petites
Looking at Breasts - Drafting a Bra Pattern………………………………….…22-49
Drafting a Bra Block
Drafting the Frame
Drafting the Lower Cup
Drafting the Upper Cup
Modifying Cup Style Lines - Grading Bra Patterns………………………….…………50-61
How the Body Grows
Two Sets of Grade Rules?
Cross Grading
Frameless Bra Band Grade
Frameless Bra Cup Grade
Cup Grade in the Larger Cup Sizes
Frame Bra Band Grade
Sports Bra Grade - Complex Fitting Techniques…………………….….….…62-75
Thoracic Shaping
The Flat Spot
The 5 Body Types
Fitting Petites
Fitting the Low Contour Breast
Back To The Wall
Fitting The Omega Shape
Increasing lift - Loving Lace……………………………………………76-94
Working with lace Edging
Ideas for Lace application - Photo Gallery
- Advanced construction …………………..…….….…….95-112
Alternative Channeling Applications
Using Sliders instead of Rings
Front Strap Connectors
Changing the Construction Order
Nursing Bra Clips
Slide Lock Adjusters
Separators
Using Continuous Wires
Using Adhesives - Cut-and-sew Foam Cups…………………..……………113-120
Cut-and-sew?
Contour Foam Cups
Cut-and-sew Foam
Seam and Topstitch
Butt and zig-zag
Mold Your Own Foam? - Molded Foam Cups………….…………………………121-162
Birth of a Foam Cup
Foam Footprints
Foam Cup Sizing
Bullet Molding
Drafting a Frame for Foam Cups
Covering Molded Foam Cups
Finishing the Cup Edges
Making Foam Cup Bras - Tools of the Trade………………..……………………163-177
Machines for Bra-making
Feeders, Folders, Binders and Hemmers
Other Useful Accessories - Chapter of Charts……………….………………..……178-184
Suggested Further Reading
Ready-to-wear Bra Sizing Chart
Ready-to-wear Standards (inches)
Ready-to-wear Standards (metric)
Wire Schematic
Using the Underwire Schematic
Arc Length Chart
Strap Patterns - Index……………………………………………..…185-188
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