QB-100 – Bra-makers Manual Volume 1

Description

Bra-makers Manual Volume 1

The Bra-makers Manual has everything you have wanted to know about making bras but didn’t know where to look. This is the original and first book of its kind, written as a textbook for the custom bra-maker. Home sewers up for a bit of a challenge will find this book a complete reference on bra design, draft, fit, and construction. Even if you never sew a bra for anyone else, you will thoroughly enjoy making your own well-fitting and supportive bras.

Author Beverly Johnson explains how to obtain the pattern for your bra (there are many sources) and how to change that one basic pattern into a library of bra styles and designs. You will learn to fit like a pro, how to choose and control fabric, and how to duplicate all of the professional techniques you see in ready to wear – including strapless, nursing, and mastectomy bras. There are optional patterns to purchase that were developed for use with this book. Please see the pattern section for the new Classic Bra pattern. The book is 240 pages with 4 in colour pages of pictures.

Second Edition: Now includes BCD Method of Bra Sizing

1. History of the Bra…………………..1-12
   The Bra Family Tree
   So Who Invented the First Bra?
   The Twenties and Thirties
   The Rise of Elastic
   Wartime and the Boomer Years
   Burn That Bra!
   That 70’s Look
   The Feminine Mystique of the 1980s
   The Return to Cleavage – 1990s
2. Terms and Definitions……………..13-23
   Parts of a Bra
   Types of Bras
   Cups
   Frames
   Bridges
   Straps
   Bra Findings
3. What is Good Fit?…………………..24-33
   What “is” Good Fit?
   Characteristics of a Well-fitting Bra
   Measuring for Ready-to-wear (N. American)
   Measuring for Ready-to-wear (International)
   Calculating Bra Sizes by Measurement
   The BCD Method of Bra Sizing (Second Edition Only)
   The Underwire System (First Edition Only)
   International Bra Sizing Conversion Chart (First Edition Only)
4. Making Fabric Choices……………34-50
   Knits or Wovens
   Knit terms
   Percentage and Direction of Pull
   Beefing up the Fabric
   Fibre Content
   Fabric Pull and How it Affects Design
   Fabric Quantities
   Elastic Terms
5. Obtaining the Pattern……………….51-73
   Home Sewing Patterns
   Cloning a Ready-to-wear Bra
   Breast Moulds
   Bra Drafting Software
   Drafting a Bra Pattern from a Sloper
   Professional Bra Blocks
   Terms used in Bra Design
   Relating the Bra to the Pattern Pieces
   Evaluating a Bra Pattern
   Observations about Bra Grading
   An Easy Way to Grade a Bra Pattern
   Grading One Size Larger
6. Birth of a Bra………………………………74-88
   Tester Cups
   Designing a Bra One Piece at a Time
   Fabric Selection
   Framework
   Closure
   Seamline Variations
   Bridge and Band Detail
   Straps
   Bra Design Sheet
7. The Construction Process………….89-122
   Setting Up to Sew
   The Equipment
   The Tools
   Preparing the Fabric Before Cutting
   Construction Sequence of a Full Band Bra
   Construction Sequence of a Partial Band Bra
   Alternate Methods of Construction
   Alternate Methods of a Front Strap Attachment
   Alternate Methods of a Back Strap Attachment
   Choices for Wire Line Treatments
   Alternate Band Construction
   Common Mistakes Everyone Makes
8. Fitting to a Live Model……………123-145
   Fittings Prior to Sewing
   Assessing the First Fitting
   Alterations to the Straps
   Alterations to the Band
   Alterations to the Bridge
   Alterations to the Cups
9. Style Changes for Fashion………..146-182
   Minor Style Changes
   Major Style Changes
   The Strapless Bra
10. Style Changes for Special Needs…183-222
    Support Challenges
    Support Bras
    Nursing Bras
    Mastectomy Bras
11. Appendix…………………………223-230
    Suggested Futher Reading
    Wire Chart
    Client Information and Design Sheet
    Fitting and Style Change Drawings
    List of Sample Providers
12. Index……………………231-235

Languages Available:

Bra-makers Manual spiral bound book – Volume 1 – English, German

Volume 2

We also recommend the follow up to the Bra-makers Manual, Volume 2.

Author Beverly Johnson, undeniably the Wizard of Bras and your very own Fairy Bra Mother, has written more of what she knows about bra design, draft, fit, and construction – packed into a her second book. Nothing from the Bra-makers Manual Volume 1 has been repeated in this all-new material collection of professional construction techniques, advanced fitting challenges, and more. This book details drafting a bra from 6 body measurements, grading a bra into multiple sizes, working with lace, and a huge chapter on working with foam bra cups. There is even a chapter on machine know-how and how to use the attachments particular to bra-making. It is 185 pages with full-colour photographs.

1. Style, Size & Shape Revisited……..……………….……….1-21
   Classifying Bra Styles
   Ready-to-wear Sizing Primer
   How does RTW measure its bras?
   Breast Contour
   Minimizers
   Petites
   Looking at Breasts
2. Drafting a Bra Pattern………………………………….…22-49
   Drafting a Bra Block
   Drafting the Frame
   Drafting the Lower Cup
   Drafting the Upper Cup
   Modifying Cup Style Lines
3. Grading Bra Patterns………………………….…………50-61
   How the Body Grows
   Two Sets of Grade Rules?
   Cross Grading
   Frameless Bra Band Grade
   Frameless Bra Cup Grade
   Cup Grade in the Larger Cup Sizes
   Frame Bra Band Grade
   Sports Bra Grade
4. Complex Fitting Techniques…………………….….….…62-75
   Thoracic Shaping
   The Flat Spot
   The 5 Body Types
   Fitting Petites
   Fitting the Low Contour Breast
   Back To The Wall
   Fitting The Omega Shape
   Increasing lift
5. Loving Lace……………………………………………76-94
   Working with lace Edging
   Ideas for Lace application
6. Photo Gallery
7. Advanced construction …………………..…….….…….95-112
   Alternative Channeling Applications
   Using Sliders instead of Rings
   Front Strap Connectors
   Changing the Construction Order
   Nursing Bra Clips
   Slide Lock Adjusters
   Separators
   Using Continuous Wires
   Using Adhesives
8. Cut-and-sew Foam Cups…………………..……………113-120
   Cut-and-sew?
   Contour Foam Cups
   Cut-and-sew Foam
   Seam and Topstitch
   Butt and zig-zag
   Mold Your Own Foam?
9. Molded Foam Cups………….…………………………121-162
   Birth of a Foam Cup
   Foam Footprints
   Foam Cup Sizing
   Bullet Molding
   Drafting a Frame for Foam Cups
   Covering Molded Foam Cups
   Finishing the Cup Edges
   Making Foam Cup Bras
10. Tools of the Trade………………..……………………163-177
    Machines for Bra-making
    Feeders, Folders, Binders and Hemmers
    Other Useful Accessories
11. Chapter of Charts……………….………………..……178-184
    Suggested Further Reading
    Ready-to-wear Bra Sizing Chart
    Ready-to-wear Standards (inches)
    Ready-to-wear Standards (metric)
    Wire Schematic
    Using the Underwire Schematic
    Arc Length Chart
    Strap Patterns
12. Index……………………………………………..…185-188